meet your driver at the Missoula airport. I was
greeted with thoughtfully prepared chilled drinks, fruit, sandwiches and fresh
baked cookies. The landscape is breathtaking and the 90-minute drive passes by
in a flash. When I visited in June, majestic mountain peaks were still holding
on to the remnants of snow from a long winter. Although I had emails to attend
to and would soon lose my mobile signal, I could hardly tear my eyes away from
the lush green forests and brilliant blue sky. The sprawling ranch is a
luxuriously sharp contrast to rural Darby, which is best known for Jimmy’s
Double H Hats (http://doublehhats.com) and a candy store (
http://www.montanaoldwestgallery.com) filled with huckleberry delights.
This is the kind of place where
you don’t need to lock your doors. It’s easy to make friends with anyone and
everyone you encounter. On my first night, I met a lovely lady at dinner who
invited me to go sapphire panning with her the next day! Washing, sifting and
tumbling the stones is definitely a workout for your arms. I found more than a
dozen stones, although most were pretty tiny. The bigger ones can be sent to
Sri Lanka to be fired and cut. Be warned – combing through the rocks to find
coruscating gems can be pretty addicting.
Although Triple Creek is a
luxurious retreat, guests are so down-to-earth and friendly. Dinner is an
elaborate multi-course affair, with an entirely new menu each evening. Yet
there’s no dress code and it’s totally fine, even encouraged, to dine in jeans.
I wore a sundress and heels the first evening and jeans, a tee and ponytail the
next. Owners Craig and Barbara Barrett even invite guests down to their home on
property, Elk Meadow, for weekly barbecues in the summer. The ranch boasts an
incredible collection of original Western artwork with more than 700 original
pieces from sculptures to paintings throughout the property. There is even
artwork in the kitchen for the cooks to enjoy.
The array of outdoor activities is
endless. Depending on your interests you can learn to fly fish, go horseback riding, spot all kinds of native wildlife on a nature safari, shoot some arrows in an archery class, or even go on a cattle drive. I had never been fishing before, but my guide, Rick Thomas of Fly Fishing Always (
http://www.flyfishingalways.com) was
a wonderfully patient teacher. I managed to catch my first fish, a 15-inch
German brown trout, after a few bites. Trout of all kinds abound in the pristine
waters of the Bitterroot River, but you may be tempted to just stare at the
storybook scenery around you, in which case a leisurely scenic float is perhaps
a better option.
I also had the chance to go on a
half-day off-trail horseback ride on the 26,000 acre CB Ranch, just
down the
road from Triple Creek and under the same ownership. My horse, Daisy, was
lively but well-behaved and we traversed the hills and valleys like pros. All
the hard work of climbing up the hills are worth it when you enjoy a picnic
lunch overlooking Darby and the mountains beyond. This is definitely not your
typical one-hour trail ride where you plod along a well-worn path. Next time I
think I’ll be ready for a cattle drive!
There’s no spa, but some cabins
have steam showers, which is a nice way to unwind after washing away the dirt
and grime of the day. And you can always get a massage in your room if you
wish. At the end of an adventurous day, gather by the firepit and toast some
s’mores with friends new and old.
Throughout the year, there are
themed weekends including vintner weekends in the spring and artist workshops
in the fall. The weekend I visited, we were celebrating the ranch’s 20th
anniversary with owners Craig and Barbara Barrett. He’s a former Intel CEO and she
is a former ambassador to Finland, among many other accomplishments. For the
occasion, there was a cocktail competition and the winning cocktail will be on
the ranch’s menu. I entered on a whim. I’ve never made a cocktail before in my
life, but love gin & tonics, so I did a uniquely Montana twist on my
favorite drink, muddling huckleberries and basil with a local gin (Whyte
Laydie). I’m told that even when there’s no bartender around, you are free to
get behind the bar and make your own drinks anytime. That’s a first!
Triple Creek Ranch gently nudges
you outside your comfort zone and makes it easy to try something
Klicks for Chicks women’s horseback riding adventure from Thursday,
October 9
th to Monday, October 13
th (
http://www.triplecreekranch.com/activities/activities_detail.html?id=61).
Come alone or with a group and by the end you’re guaranteed to have made some
new girlfriends.
new. It’s a
safe and welcoming place to learn – like a sophisticated sleepaway camp for
adults. One upcoming event just for the ladies is the
Getting there:
Missoula (MSO) is the nearest airport,
serviced by United, Delta, Frontier, Alaskan and
Allegiant airlines. The city is worth taking a day to explore as well. Shop at
Cloth & Crown (http://clothandcrown.com) and One
Eleven Boutique (www.oneelevenboutiquemissoula.com/) for
on-trend clothes and locally made jewelry or peek into Butterfly Herbs (http://butterflyherbs.com) for an
eclectic array of spices, coffee and Chinese herbs. Watch the sun set
while dining at The Keep (
http://thekeeprestaurant.com)
– its panoramic views of the city are matched by simply prepared, delicious
food. Stay at the charming Gibson Mansion (
http://gibsonmansion.com),
for first-rate beds and breakfasts. Hosts Tom and Nancy bring you fresh-baked
scones along with tea or coffee to your room on a tray and a multi-course meal
awaits in the dining room. I can’t think of a better way to start my day.
